Last week we looked at how the soil can help us prevent floods and ensure water is available to plants in times of need. But, looking closer, we will learn that the role that soil plays in our ecosystems extends far beyond this. Soil is the basis for life. It provides us with most of our food, but it is much more than just a growing medium. To quote the late Paul Harvey, "Despite all of our accomplishments, we owe our existence to a six-inch layer of topsoil and the fact that it rains."
Soil is a living, breathing thing that requires nurturing in order to survive. Healthy soil is home to an array of aerobic (oxygen requiring) microorganisms. These microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi on the smallest scale, are the foundation of the soil food web. The soil food web plays an important role in carbon sequestration, which in turn increases the soil's ability to hold moisture, resist erosion and support biodiversity. When bacteria and fungi are present, larger microorganisms like protozoa, nematodes and the non-microscopic earthworms, beetles and other insects are also present to feed on them. All of these organisms work their way through the soil, consuming smaller species, breaking down soil particles, creating pathways for air and water to infiltrate while at the same time producing and distributing organic matter. An increase in the biodiversity of both macro and micro-organisms present in the soil is directly related to increased soil health. When you see a worm, working its way through the soil, it is there because there is food available for it. When birds or insects are poking around, they are enjoying a snack as well.
There are three major roles that microorganisms play in the soil. First, as previously mentioned, they participate in creating the air and water pathways that are essential for plant and microbial life. Secondly, they are responsible for releasing soil nutrients by breaking down both compost and soil particles making them available in a plant-ready form. Third, they communicate with plants to determine what nutrient the plant needs and exactly when it needs it. Plants send out signals through their root zones when a specific nutrient, such as phosphorous, is required; microorganisms source this nutrient and make it available to the plant in exchange for sugar. We don’t see much of the work that they do, but these microbial species are incredibly important to our soil, our plants and our ecosystems.
Chemical pesticides and fertilizers are highly detrimental to healthy soil. They disrupt the delicate soil food web and, as such, have negative, long term consequences. Many of these products contain high concentrations of salts. Microorganisms can not survive in high salt conditions and die as a result. As the smaller species die off, the larger ones cannot survive without them for food. The more chemicals added to the soil, the more damage that is done, to a point where there aren’t any microorganisms left. Once the organisms are gone, all the air and waterways they built will disappear leaving the soil without the capacity to hold water or support life. This type of poor land care practice can lead to degradation of formerly fertile soil. Carbon emissions generated during the application of synthetic fertilizers have resulted in one of the fastest growing emission sources in agriculture, contributing further to climate change.
Now that we’ve established what healthy soil is, let's look at some of the things it does and how it impacts our ecosystems.
Healthy soil
Supports plants of all types, including but not limited to
Trees that absorb carbon dioxide from the atmosphere
Food gardens that provide nourishing, local food
Native plants that support native pollinators
Is the foundation for ecosystem biodiversity
Can sequester carbon and store it within fungi
Can absorb water during heavy rains and make it available to plants as needed
Regulates ground temperatures
Healthy soil has a role to play in both climate change resilience and mitigation. Healthy soil sequesters more carbon, supports locally grown food to reduce our carbon footprint and is the foundation of ecosystem biodiversity, supporting both nutrient cycling and soil productivity. If we take care of the soil, it will take care of us.
Building healthy soil isn’t difficult. It’s more a matter of giving back. What comes from the soil should go back to the soil. Food waste, especially fruit and vegetable waste can be composted. As can garden waste, leaves, tree branches (when mulched), and more. Leaving the leaves, grass cuttings, and ground litter to compost in place can allow for the natural covering of an area. If your neighbour likes to rake their lawn, use those for your own garden or compost pile. The more diverse the inputs to the soil, the more diverse the microbial species that will be present, increasing your garden’s resilience to climate change impacts.
Referencesde Goede, S. P. C., Hannula, S. E., Jansen, B. Morriën, E. (18 Apr 25). Fungal-mediated soil aggregation as a mechanism for carbon stabilization. The ISME Journal. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC12106282/#:~:text=Recent%20studies%20found%20that%20fungi%20are%20responsible%20for%20sequestration%20and%20stabilization%20of%20up%20to%2075%25%20of%20plant%2Dderived%20carbon%20in%20natural%20grasslands
Cho, R. (18 Feb 2018). Can Soil Help Combat Climate Change? State of the Planet. https://news.climate.columbia.edu/2018/02/21/can-soil-help-combat-climate-change/#:~:text=Because%20microbial%20decomposition%20releases%20carbon,that%20protect%20carbon%20from%20microbes
Written by Julia Dupuis
Each year, regular summer rain seems to be less frequent than previous years. Rainfall, or more specifically the groundwater that is replenished by the rain, is so important for the health of our ecosystems and for the maintenance of the water cycle. The changing climate is having an impact on water systems. Rain is less frequent, and when it comes, it is often very heavy.
According to Agriculture Canada, as of September 30th, 2025, there were still many areas across the country classified as severe, extreme or exceptional drought with many identified as long-term drought (https://agriculture.canada.ca/en/agricultural-production/weather/canadian-drought-monitor/current-drought-conditions). Life is not sustainable without water, but we no longer have a reliable water cycle to sustain the moisture levels our ecosystems require. When soil dries up it can no longer support vegetation and microbial life. As such water is more likely to run off than infiltrate the soil, exacerbating conditions for flooding, erosion and a continuing cycle of ecosystem damage.
The soil is our greatest support for fluctuating rainfall. When the soil acts as a sponge, it can absorb heavy rains, making water available during drought. Increasing the organic matter in the soil is an essential step for creating sponge-like conditions. This can be achieved by adding finished compost, composting in place and mulching areas of bare soil throughout the growing season. Increasing the organic matter of 1 acre of soil by just 1%, allows the soil to hold an additional 16,500 gallons of water. The addition of organic matter to the soil is your best tool for addressing rainfall inconsistency with our changing climate. (https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/compost_increases_the_water_holding_capacity_of_droughty_soils).
When it rains, aim to get as much water into the soil as possible. Direct the water to permeable surfaces instead of the sewer. Mulch your walkways, utilize permeable paving stones and, of course, gardens and lawns are excellent surfaces for the water to infiltrate the soil. The greater the water holding capacity of the soil, the greater the volume of water that will be absorbed into the soil instead of running off into the sewer. The rate the rainwater is falling can also impact absorption. Heavy rain may not have time to seep into the ground, resulting in runoff. Water gushing from a downspout may pool below the downspout or spill over into the sewer instead of seeping into the ground. Directing this water toward gardens or any areas with plant material can avoid runoff.
Now that the water is in the soil, we need to keep it there until plants need it. Every living thing in the soil including microorganisms, plant roots and soil particles, participate in holding water through various methods. Organic matter introduces microorganisms to the soil while providing food for them to multiply. Sufficient water also encourages aerobic conditions for beneficial organisms to thrive instead of anaerobic conditions. Decomposing organic matter creates sticky substances that help to improve soil structure by binding soil particles into larger aggregates which in turn create larger pore spaces. The binding together of clay, sand and silt particles into larger aggregates increases their capacity to absorb and store water. In addition to improved water holding capacity, this improved soil structure decreases soil compaction, increases air space availability and encourages water movement through the soil. All this influences the biological activity of microbes by providing the aerobic conditions required for beneficial organisms to thrive and facilitates proper drainage to discourage waterlogged conditions.
Mulch, mulch, mulch. Wherever and whenever possible, keep the soil covered. Bare soil allows the water to evaporate whereas mulch protects it from the sun, keeping the ground cool and moist. Not only will mulch prevent the water from evaporating, it will also reduce the plant’s need for water while slowly feeding the soil and increasing the organic matter.
You won’t see all the benefits of increased soil organic matter overnight, but regularly implementing soil health practices will allow you to see a difference over a matter of a few seasons. Before you know it, your garden will be thriving during droughts and holding water during heavy rainfalls.
When rain falls, especially in huge volumes, rain barrels are an excellent way to store the rainwater. In heavy rain (10 mm or more), there could be upwards of 750 L of rain running off a house (based on a roof of roughly 80 sq m). Directing this to a rain barrel (or two) instead of the street reduces the demand on the municipal stormwater infrastructure. Stormwater systems in older neighbourhoods may not be designed for the heavy rainfall we see today and when they overflow, flooding occurs. Keeping larger volumes of rainwater out of the sewer can help your neighbourhood avoid a flood. Rain barrels can also act to slow down the catchment from a roof so it isn’t damaging to the soil. If your barrel is overflowing, consider connecting a hose and opening the valve so rainwater can be directed to where it is most beneficial, such as a plant with high water needs or a rain garden. A rain barrel full of water also means that you’ll have ample water for watering plants (indoors and outdoors) during the next drought - 750 L of water is a lot of days of watering during drier periods! If you’re interested in learning more about harvesting rainwater, check out our “Rainwater Harvesting and Management” course. You will learn everything from calculating runoff to the appropriately sized system.
Rain gardens are another way of managing heavy rains. A rain garden is designed to accommodate the heavy influx of rain and to slowly release the water when the soil can absorb it. Rain gardens are a wonderful feature to add to your landscape. On the surface, they can be a beautiful collection of native plants. Below the design works to absorb and release water to prevent flooding and retain the water in the landscape.
No water wise gardening plan is complete without consideration given to wise plant choices. Including native plant and drought tolerant species in your garden can both support wildlife friendly habitat for pollinators while addressing water availability challenges. Plants like native wildflowers, native shrubs and herbs are often more resistant to pests and disease while thriving on less water during fluctuating rainfall that is associated with climate change.
In the vegetable garden it may be possible to choose varieties that are more resilient to drought while incorporating cover crops, mulch, drip systems and no till methods to help minimize water loss. Kale, Swiss chard, winter squash, root vegetables such as carrots and sweet potatoes, beans, peppers and radishes will better tolerate drought conditions.
Regardless of which water-wise techniques you plan to implement for the next gardening season, be sure to add plenty of organic matter to your soil. Your plants will thank you.
Fire is a part of Nature, and lightning strikes help to turn over ecosystems by catalyzing new growth and allowing for secondary succession. For thousands of years, Indigenous people used fire as a form of land stewardship to clear out dead plant material, allowing space for new growth and avoiding a dangerous buildup of combustible materials that would have resulted in much larger, destructive fires. Controlled burning created meadows and grassland habitats for herd animals, which were important food sources.
The influx of foreign settlers and colonialists changed fire patterns: cultural burning practices were prohibited and fires were seen as detrimental and to be avoided at all costs. Cities were built using flammable materials (mainly wood buildings), and additional human-caused fires disrupted the rate of natural fire events. At present in Canada, lightning causes approximately 50% of all wildfires, with humans making up the other half.
Western coastal North America is experiencing the worst prolonged drought in 1200 years, and the summers are becoming increasingly hotter and drier. By the end of the summer, trees are often dried up and hundreds of thousands succumb to the heat stress or in their weakened state become prey to pests (Mott & Angle, 19). The mountain pine beetle is the most aggressive and destructive bark beetle in western Canada and the western USA and climate stress is weakening the trees it feeds on (ponderosa, limber, lodgepole and whitebark pines are its preferred hosts). Long cold snaps will kill the beetle, but with milder winters these are becoming more rare. The resulting swaths of dead, dried out conifers are ignition-ready fuel (Mott & Angle, 24).
There are three main ignition sources arising from wildfires: embers/firebrands, radiant heat and direct contact with flames. Hot, fast-moving wildfires can loft embers for hundreds of meters - even kilometers - ahead of the main fire, and these embers rain down like hail on structures below such as roofs, gutters and yard areas. Up to 90% of structure fires during a wildfire event originate from falling embers! (Edwards & Schleiger, 65).
Managing the space around the home is typically divided into zones, with varying levels of defensibility. Closest to the house lies a non-flammable zone, and as one gets further from the structure, zones become less restrictive, although there is always a baseline level of fire resilience practices factored in. Defensible space is organized into three zones where the density and type of vegetation is closely monitored and maintained. One can consider a fourth zone beyond those, where habitat is maintained for ecological health (Edwards & Schleiger, 80).
FireSmart BC calls these the immediate, intermediate and extended zones.
Home Ignition Zone. Image credit: FireSmart BC
Zone 1: 0 - 1.5 m «The Noncombustible Zone»
This area also includes any decks and fences that are attached to the main structure. It should be kept free of vegetation, debris, flammable mulch and weed cloth, and should not contain any items such as furniture, yard umbrellas, garden art and garbage or recycling bins. Take a walk through your neighbourhood to see how many homes meet the criteria for this inner zone: probably very few, if any!
Zone 2: 1.5 – 10 m «The Lean, Clean and Green Zone»
Grasses, shrubs and small trees can be planted in this area. Artwork such as sculptures and birdbaths, and furniture (including the cushions) should be made of noncombustible material. Plants with resins and fragrant oils should be avoided, as they are more flammable than deciduous plants, and herbaceous stems are less so than woody stems. Gaps of bare ground with fire resistant mulches, rocks or hardscaping create firebreaks, should an ember ignite a patch of grass, for example. “What if embers fell into this area?” is the question the landscape planner should be constantly considering. Raised beds and children’s play equipment can be placed in this area near the outer edge, ideally surrounded by bare dirt or gravel. As with Zone 1, the area should be regularly cleared of debris, and dead plant parts should be removed.
Zone 3: 10 - 30 m, « The Fuel Reduction Zone »
This is where mature trees and more closely spaced shrubs and herbaceous plants can go. Spacing at least 3 m between tree canopies and following guidelines for vertical spacing and density to avoid ladder fuel situations is recommended. An open woodpile in this zone should not be immediately adjacent to other plantings. In high hazard regions, or on sloped terrain, this zone could be as large as 90 m .
Beyond Zone 3, the natural area is often considered habitat area, and is not defensible territory. Having healthy native ecosystems without a surplus of ground level fuel caused by ongoing fire suppression goes a long way to reducing the risk of large, destructive fires in this area.
When choosing landscape plants for fire-prone regions – the term “firescaping” is often used – selections should be based on plant flammability and suitability for the local climate.
Native plants are typically the healthiest and best adapted to an area. All plants can burn, but some burn more easily than others. Where you put plants and how you care for them is critical in reducing wildfire risk to your home. There should be no flammable vegetation, including wood mulch, within 5 feet of the house – the area called the “immediate zone”. Best practices are to keep this area free of all vegetation, and to cover the ground with gravel, rocks or permeable pavers.
Farther away from the home where plants are located, consider the following questions:
Does the plant contain resins, oils or waxes? The higher the level of these, the more flammable the plant, and they also burn hotter.
Are the plant’s limbs adequately spaced out and balanced or are they packed closely together in a tangled web? Dense limbs are more likely to trap embers and catch fire.
How much debris does the plant shed? (bark, leaves, needles). Everything the plant drops is potential fuel that needs to be cleaned up. (Mott & Angle, 193)
The characteristics of plants, such as their habit, leaf density and moisture content, along with their health, dictate their susceptibility to ignition. In the Pacific Northwest, for example, one could start with a palette of grasses such as Westcoast bentgrass (Agrostis pallens) and purple needlegrass (Stipa pulchra) which have a high moisture content, less above-ground mass and deeper roots. In contrast, a popular decorative ornamental such as Pampas grass with lots of feathery, vertical airy growth, is highly flammable.
Trees planted as specimens and spaced apart can still create cooler microclimates under their canopy. Fire resistant species in the coastal area of southwest BC (my stomping grounds) include bigleaf maple (Acer macrophyllum), red alder (Alnus rubra) and black cottonwood (populus trichocarpa). Appropriate pruning up of low branches, removing any climbing vines, and spacing trees apart from understorey species prevents a “ladder fuel” situation where shrubs and smaller trees in close proximity to a large tree catch fire and bring the flames up into the tree canopy, literally providing a ladder for the fire to climb. Coniferous trees and shrubs are not recommended in Zone 1 or 2, nor the use of their bark chips as a mulch due to flammability. The ease with which these pitch and resin-laden trees burn is highlighted, for example, by current regulations in multiplex dwellings prohibiting natural Christmas trees as a fire hazard. To think that in former times, every Christmas-celebrating household had a densely branched coniferous seasonal tree decorated with small actual candles! And yet, here in my area, houses surrounded by cedar hedges and featuring shrubs right up against the siding are the fashion.
Adding a shelterbelt of well-hydrated and maintained plants can also protect a property from winds and wind-borne embers. Such a barrier should be semi-permeable to allow some air through and reduce wind velocity on the other side. Solid walls cause abrupt interruptions in airflow patterns and create turbulence, which can intensify fires and disperse embers over a larger area (Edwards & Shleiger, 93).
Tips to FireSmart Your Home. Image credit: FireSmart BC
There are many regional and provincial resources available with great information on locally native plant choices and tips for fire-wise designing, maintenance and risk reduction. FireSmart BC has a wealth of information including plant lists, mulch evaluations, landscaping tips and an interactive plant choice tool where you can learn which native plants work best in your region.
Some garden centres and nurseries now add a label with the “Firesmart” designation to their plants for which are good choices for landscapes in higher wildfire risk areas.
This blog posting merely scratches the surface on the topic of firescaping, but as an entry point to basic concepts and some resources to explore further, it will hopefully prompt you to dive deeper into the topic and learn more about how you can be aware and prepared wherever you live.
References:
Edwards, Adrienne & Schleiger, Rachel. Firescaping Your Home: A Manual for Readiness in Wildfire Country. Timber Press, Portland, OR, 2023
Mott, Nick & Angle, Justin. This Is Wildfire: How to Protect Yourself, Your Home and Your Community in the Age of Heat. Bloomsbury Publishing, New York, NY, 2023
https://firesmartcanada.ca/programs/firesmart-101/
https://firesmartbc.ca
https://www.canadawildfire.org/wildfirefacts
Written by Laurie Smith
This is the first blog in our 6-part series on Climate Resilience Gardening.
Ecoscaping is a term to describe landscape design that considers the ecology of the system to reduce inputs. It is a related concept to Xeriscaping, which refers to landscapes designed to use little to no water, but takes it further in considering habitat, landscape management practices, and maintenance requirements.
What are the benefits of Ecoscaping?
It saves water, in a lot of cases removing the need for irrigation.
It protects the soil biome by keeping the soil covered, which reduces evaporation.
It eliminates the need for fertilizers and pesticides.
It saves money (no irrigation with potable water, less labour/maintenance hours)
It encourages habitat for birds, insects, etc.
There are 9 key points to creating and implementing an ecoscape design for your yard:
Build your soil. Soil microorganisms, much like larger organisms, need water, food, and shelter to thrive. For life in the soil, this means consistent moisture levels, lots of organic matter, and protection from extreme temperatures.
Choose drought-resistant plants. Drought-resistant plants have low water needs due to adaptation to dry conditions. Plants native to your area are more likely to thrive, and often serve as food and habitat for native insects.
Place plants appropriately. Always choose a location for your plant that matches its needs. A full sun Artemisia will thrive on a south slope, but will rot in a cool, damp, low area.
Mulch your soil. The term “mulch” means anything that covers the soil.
Skip the landscape fabric as it tends to let water in but not back out, causing anaerobic conditions that will harm your soil microbes.
Only plant areas of turf grass where you really need it. Turf grasses tend to have high water needs and high maintenance. We all love to have some grass to walk on, or for our dogs and kids to play on, but we don’t need acres of lawn that goes unused.
Don’t baby the grass you have- If you have good soil and mow no lower than 3-4”, it won’t need irrigation and will bounce back from dry periods quickly.
Compost or compost-in-place. Compost any surplus plant material and then add your compost under your mulch in the drip zone of your plants to feed them and the soil organisms. You can also make compost tea and spray your garden with the dilution. I use a pump sprayer to do this, and I apply it to the plant foliage too, to help combat bad bacteria and fungi.
Collect rainwater for when you need it. Add a few rain barrels to your yard so that you can water when necessary without using potable water. All plants will need a bit of watering until they are established (1-2 seasons usually.)
Consider habitat for all. Habitat means water, shelter, food and connectivity is available.
Plan before you do. Make plant wish lists by poring over gardening magazines for your zone (the library is a great source), ask your neighbours about gorgeous plants they have in their yard, etc. Really look at some of the yards and designs you see around you and clarify what you like and don’t like about them. Any style of garden can be built using ecoscaping principles.
Re-thinking your yard from an ecological perspective will help to build some resilience in the face of unpredictable weather due to climate change. How? It will improve water retention in your soil to combat droughts. It will allow heavy rains to soak into your soil, reducing the chances of flooding. It will build a pocket of habitat when habitats are being lost. It will improve soil health and diversity, and lock carbon into the soil. Imagine if every landscape was built with these priorities…
Ecoscaping is not just good for your yard, it’s good for the planet. And you might just start a trend when your yard is thriving despite the weather!
Sources and Resources
Books: (in no particular order)
Gaia’s Garden, by Toby Hemenway
Resilient Agriculture, by Laura Lengnick
Gardening in a Changing World, by Darryl Moore
The Ecological Landscape Professional, by Erik Ohlsen
Planting in a Post-Wild World, by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West
Dryland Gardening, by Jennifer Bennett
Ecological Gardening, by Marjorie Harris
The Basics of Permaculture Design, by Ross Mars
Websites:
https://www.strathcona.ca/agriculture-environment/footprint/water-conservation/outdoor-water-saving-tips/ecoscape-your-yard-to-reduce-water-use/
https://okanaganxeriscape.org/
https://www.edmonton.ca/residential_neighbourhoods/gardens_lawns_trees/eco-landscaping
https://mgabc.org/2025/06/04/xeriscaping-in-the-north/
https://www.perennials.com/advanced-perennial-search.html
As our climate shifts, gardeners and land care professionals are facing new challenges - longer droughts, heavier rains, and increased wildfire risks. With every challenge comes an opportunity to reimagine our gardens as resilient, thriving ecosystems that can withstand change while restoring ecosystem balance.
At Gaia College, we believe in working with nature to build sustainable and ecologically resilient landscapes. This fall, we are launching a Climate Resilient Gardening blog series to explore practical solutions to design and care for gardens that are both beautiful and adaptable to climate change. From whole landscape design ideas like ecoscaping and firescaping, to hands-on practices like soil remediation and water management, this series will help you create environmentally resilient landscapes.
Each Wednesday, over the next six weeks, we will share a new blog with tips to build a resilient landscape for both home gardeners and land care professionals to benefit from. These articles will be provide ideas to implement immediately. Each each article will include course ideas to deepen your knowledge and ensure that your landscape is ready for future climate events.
Discover how ecoscaping blends design and ecology to create landscapes that work with nature, not against it. Learn how thoughtful design choices, like contouring, plant selection, and water flow can transform your yard into a beautiful, low-maintenance ecosystem that can withstand the changing climate.
Wildfire risk is a growing concern, but your garden can help protect your home and community. This post explores firescaping principles - how to design defensible space, choose fire-resistant plants, and maintain a resilient landscape that’s both safe and sustainable.
Too much water or not enough? A water-wise garden can handle both. Learn how to build a resilient landscape by holding water in the landscape for when your plants need it. Incorporating drought-tolerant plants, rainwater harvesting, rain gardens, and organic soil practices will keep your landscapes lush and healthy year-round.
Healthy soil is alive. It is also your garden’s best defense against climate stress. Explore how composting, mulching, and organic practices can nurture soil life, store carbon, and build the foundation for a thriving, climate-resilient garden.
Biodiversity is nature’s insurance policy. Unleash the power of beneficial insects and diverse species to keep pests and disease at bay. Biodiversity will allow your gardens to adapt to changing conditions while supporting the ecosystem.
From scorching heat to sudden storms, our gardens face it all. Learn how to prepare your garden for extreme weather events with strategies for protection, recovery, and planning that keep your landscape resilient through every season.
Climate resilience begins in our own backyards. By adopting organic, sustainable practices, we can prepare our gardens to thrive in uncertain times, while contributing to the health of our communities, and the planet.
Follow along with our Climate Resilient Gardening series and discover how small changes in your land care practices can have a big impact. Together, we can cultivate gardens that nourish us, protect biodiversity, and remain strong as our climate changes.
As the gardening season winds down and autumn settles in, many of us start tidying up our beds in preparation for winter. While it’s common to haul spent perennials and other plant debris to the compost pile, there’s a simpler, smart and more sustainable approach: chop and drop mulching.
This method not only saves time and effort but also enriches your soil naturally—right where your plants need it most.
“Chop and drop” is exactly what it sounds like. Instead of removing garden clippings, you chop them into smaller pieces and let them fall directly on the soil where the plant once stood. Over time, these clippings decompose, returning nutrients back to the soil and creating a free, natural mulch layer.
Think of it as giving your garden a cozy blanket made of its own resources.
Soil Enrichment – As the chopped material breaks down, it releases nutrients directly into the soil, feeding microorganisms and nourishing the roots of next year’s plants.
Moisture Retention & Mulch – The fallen debris acts like mulch, reducing water evaporation and protecting the soil from erosion.
Time & Money Saver – Fewer hauling trips to the compost pile, less mulch purchases.
Encourages Healthy Growth – Leaving this organic matter behind helps perennials regenerate with more vigor the following season.
Supports Sustainability – Nothing goes to waste; everything cycles back into the ecosystem.
Select Your Plants Wisely Some perennials should be left standing, especially those with hollow stems (they provide habitat for overwintering insects and pollinators). Others, like fibrous or grassy stems, can be cut back.
Cut Them Down Using pruners, cut plants close to the ground. Don’t worry about being too exact.
Chop Into Pieces Cut or break stems and leaves into 1–2 inch pieces. This speeds decomposition and helps the material settle into place.
Drop It Where It Falls Simply let the pieces fall where the plant grew. Spread them lightly if needed, but precision isn’t necessary.
Let Nature Do the Work Over the winter, the chopped material decomposes, feeding your soil and protecting it until spring.
To some eyes, chop and drop might look a little untidy compared to a perfectly cleared garden bed. But what looks “messy” is actually a sign of smart, sustainable gardening. Instead of stripping the soil bare, you’re working with nature’s cycles—closing the loop and keeping nutrients where they belong.
Chop and drop mulching is a simple, effective fall gardening technique that saves you time, reduces waste, and builds healthier soil for the seasons ahead. It’s free, easy, and sustainable—truly a win-win for both you and your garden.
So this fall, instead of bagging up your perennials, grab your pruners, chop them down, and drop them in place. Your soil (and next summer’s flowers) will thank you.
Christina Cook, a Landscape Architecture graduate from Germany, is a SOUL Certified Organic Land Care Professional, Gaia College Instructor, and owner of The Organic Gardener's Pantry in Victoria, B.C., Canada. At Gaia College, she has taught Ecological Landscape Design, the Organic Master Gardener course, and currently teaches Ecological Plant Knowledge. Christina has also co-authored three SOUL e-books. Passionate about ecological gardening, she strives to live in harmony with people and the planet. Her own rented garden thrives with a diverse mix of ornamental, native, and food plants.
This article was originally posted to our blog in 2023.
There is no denying that summers in Canada are becoming increasingly hot and dry. Wildfires, heat waves, droughts… This is scary news especially when most of us are trying our best to garden ecologically and sustainably!
With hotter weather and water shortages, it is becoming increasingly important to garden in a way that conserves water, for the health of plants and soils, and the health of our planet.
Whether you garden in the ground, in containers, or even in pots, here are some ways you can take care of your garden while conserving water this summer.
Feed the Soil
Nutrient-rich soils retain water better, and produce healthier plants!
Here are some tips for keeping your soils well-fed:
Mulch, Mulch and Mulch Some More!
Mulch has so many benefits to your garden and soil. A well-mulched garden needs less water, has less weeds, and healthier soil!
Thick layers of mulch will help to drop the overall temperature of your soil, protecting the beneficial microbes that live in the top two inches of soil. It will also limit evaporation, safeguarding moisture in the ground. And finally, a well-mulched garden is a powerhouse against weeds, which also leech nutrients and moisture from your plants!
Here are some tips for good mulching:
As for you gardeners, make sure you stay hydrated as well! Wear a sunhat, and sunscreen, and take lots of shade breaks if you are planning to spend time in the garden this summer (as you should!).
Happy gardening!
Sources
Gaia College course material
Gaia College instructor: Jennifer Burns-Robinson
The Spruce: https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-use-compost-6892401
A recent email from a gardening organization reminded me that I am not the only one with unwanted plants popping up in my garden. Every year, all sorts of things that weren’t planted show up - invasive weeds, my neighbour’s rose bush, and other things that I’m constantly questioning. Despite my efforts applying compost (to feed the plants I do want), adding mulch (to keep the unwanted plants away) and ensuring proper soil health so the wanted plants will thrive, it seems I’m only providing a cocktail of nutrients for anything green and living to benefit.
I’ll admit - I’m divided when it comes to weeds. It is highly satisfying to pull them out. But doing so disturbs the soil and the microorganisms which were probably feeding on it as well as opening up the space exposing the helpful microorganisms. And it’s likely whatever was growing there is just going to come back. But even if they’re unwanted, they’re not all bad. Some may be beneficial to the cultivated plants, others may be providing insight into the soil. Thistles that prick my hand while harvesting are native to my region and beneficial to pollinators once they flower; various parts of a dandelion can be eaten and enjoyed. If pulled, they can add more nutrients to a compost pile when they break down.
There are many things we can learn about our soil from the unwanted plants that pop up. Most importantly, when they are co-existing with the cultivated plants, instead of pushing them out, there may be a positive synergy not visible to the naked eye. Or maybe the soil is so full of nutrients, all plants can benefit. As satisfying as it is to pull them out, I’ll leave that for the invasive weeds that truly don’t belong.
For further reading on what weeds can teach us: https://bcfarmsandfood.com/what-weeds-can-tell-you-about-your-garden/
Plants of all heights, shapes and sizes are in bloom. If you’re experienced in the world of plants, you might be looking at the finer details - the colour or shape of the bloom; the location and growing conditions; the leaf shape. However, if not, you might yourself staring at one and wondering - what is it? Is it native? How did it get here?
What is one to do when walking through Nature and finding a tree or flower or shrub and asking these questions? Take pictures, ask plant identification apps, and share with others. Like us! We want to know what native plants are growing in your ecoregion. Send your pictures to outreach@gaiacollege.ca. Be sure to include the name of the plant (English or Latin) and the ecoregion where you found it. We’ll be showcasing native plants on our social media and in our newsletters over the summer months.
Yellow trout lily, Ecozone - Mixed Plains, Ecoregion - Lake Simcoe - Rideau. Photo by Julia Dupuis.
Planting a pollinator garden can be a daunting task. There are so many native pollinators that require food - hummingbirds, various bees, butterflies, and many more. Not only that, some require specific food sources while others are attracted to a variety of different plants. Planting native plants is no easy choice either when you are faced with a long list of options. These gardens can take time to fully establish themselves, and while planning is a great practice for any garden, slow and steady cultivation through the seasons is rewarding as well.
Before selecting native plant seeds for your new garden, spend a bit of time thinking about the space and the species that you want to include. Annuals, perennials, flowers and shrubs can all be found on native plant lists and they all host native insects.
Are you planting in containers, or the ground? Are you looking for different pops of colour each year? Do you have room for larger plants like shrubs? Maybe you want to incorporate some native plants into an existing garden.
Not all pollinator attracting plants need to be perennial wildflowers. Perennials are convenient because they self-seed and bloom for multiple years. But when planted from seed they may take a few years to flower. Annuals are a good option while you’re waiting for perennials to bloom. Annuals are also great for filling in an empty spot in the garden, or if you like a change of colour each year.
There are many options for native plants in your garden. But what to choose? What about designing a garden around a specific pollinator?
Do a bit of research to see what pollinators are native to your ecosystem. Once you’ve decided if you want to attract one type of pollinator or all types, see what they like to eat: colourful plants, specific plants? Consider when plants bloom as well so your new friends will have food all season long. Make sure the plants you’re considering are indeed native, as native plants are the best food source for native pollinators. Most provincial or regional governments will have native species listings available so you can confirm this. Here are some examples to get started:
West Coast Seeds is a great starting point for native plants and growing tips. They have native plant collections for each region, like Native Plants of British Columbia, which provides suggestions, images, and more info on what they offer in that region. They also offer seed blends - like the Pacific Northwest Wildflower Blend or Bee Garden Blend that include a variety of native plant seeds. While they’re based in BC, many species may be native to other areas as well.
A local plant nursery is a great informational source for learning what plants are native to your region. They may also be able to direct you to where to find them.
There are many local or provincial non-profit organizations that provide educational resources on native plants and offer plants for sale. Additionally, native plant nurseries are becoming more popular. These small nurseries are operated by people that have extensive knowledge of and cultivate local native species. Be sure to also check your neighbourhood. A gardening neighbour may be happy to share cuttings or seeds of an established native plant.
Our course, Ecological Plant Knowledge 1 - Natives will help you take your understanding of native plants deeper while discovering native plants in your region. Course starts May 12.
If you're not able to commit to the course, join our webinar on Saturday, April 12: Webinar - Native Plants
BC: https://aboriginal.landfood.ubc.ca/plants/
Prairies: https://www.prairieflora.com/store/c4/Prairie_Wildflowers.html Ontario: https://www.onplants.ca/resources/catalogues/ Quebec: https://espacepourlavie.ca/en/native-plants-your-garden
Atlantic Provinces: https://macphailwoods.org/
West Coast Seeds Native Flower Seeds: https://www.westcoastseeds.com/collections/native-flower-seeds Native Plant Gardener: https://nativeplantgardener.ca/
Homegrown National Park has a directory of local businesses that can help you plan and plant native species: https://homegrownnationalpark.org/directory/
Friends of the Earth Canada: https://foecanada.org/the-bee-cause/trees-for-bees/
WWF Canada: https://wwf.ca/stories/how-to-attract-help-hummingbirds-native-plants/
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